Thursday, January 29, 2009

Orion 120ST f/5 Short Tube Refractor - Home at Last

Phew! After months of research and a week of waiting after I ordered it, my new telescope, the Orion 120ST f/5 finally arrived. The scope is mounted on an Astro-Tech Voyager portable Alt-Az mount. Here are a couple of pictures.



Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to really use it yet. I've ordered two eyepieces but neither one is due to arrive until next week. I did scavenge a 25mm Kelner eyepiece (24x power) from an old kid's scope in the basement so I can use that.... except that it's been both cloudy and snowing since the scope got here on Tuesday.

However, the snow stopped this afternoon and I hauled the 120ST out to the front yard. It's daylight and cloudy, but I wanted to test the focus and make sure the finder scope was lined up properly. So, I pointed the scope down the street about 1/2 mile. It turns out that the cheap eyepiece isn't too bad. The focus was crystal clear and I was able to read license plates from 4-5 blocks away (backwards). And I was able to line up the finder scope pretty well.

Actually, the finder tool I use isn't really a "scope" at all. It's a small laser that points at a little glass viewfinder. It doesn't magnify anything, but the laser throws up a little reticule target on the glass which you line up with your target in the sky. The 120ST has such a wide field of view that you don't really need a separate finder. I'm still tempted to get a right angle, correct image 9X50 finder for it also someday, in addition to the EZFinder-Delux, just so that I don't have to contort my back in crazy positions to sight up with something in the sky.

So far I'm pleased enough with the optics. I've heard that some people have gotten poorly collimated copies of this scope and have been forced to return them. There's a 100mm version of this scope that comes with the ability to collimate the objective lens, but this 20mm larger version doesn't have that ability for some reason. (Collimation is the process of adjusting the lens to make sure it is pointed exactly straight down the tube towards the focuser and eyepiece.)

The other bonus is that I've confirmed that I can carry a small chair and a box with the diagonal and eyepiece under one arm while carrying the mount and scope with the other and haul it all outside in one trip. Setup was fast as was teardown. The whole process was really easy, which was extra nice since it is pretty freakin' cold outside.

The next step in the process is to try the 120ST out under clear skies. When my 13mm Ethos and the 4.3mm Antares eyepieces arrive I can then test the focus on the moon and run a "star test". That will also tell me how well the lens takes a focus and how well collimated the objective is.

Instructions and a description of "star testing" can be found here.

More later, when the sky clears up. Shoo, clouds, shoo!

Tuesday, January 27, 2009

Night Vision - Part 3

So, after all the research I've described in previous posts below, one overarching fact became obvious to me. If I wanted the best possible views of planets, nebulae, star clusters and galaxies in a relatively inexpensive package, then I should buy the biggest possible Dobsonian Reflector.

Here's an example of a 10" Dob from Orion Telescopes. It only costs about $500.00 before any accessories are added. And the only extras it might need are additional eyepieces, a better finder scope and maybe an improved focuser if you're picky about such things. The only trouble with this is that it is 10" in diameter and 4' long and weighs 55 pounds.

If portability wasn't an issue for me, then this is probably the telescope I would have purchased.

But, because I really wanted something portable and have been having fantasies about taking a telescope camping with us, I had to come up with another plan.

I started looking at either refractors or cassegrain scopes, but those tend to have either small diameter apertures or long focal lengths which mean they are better at viewing planets and the moon than they are at DSOs like nebulae or star clusters. Since I wanted to look at everything I could in the sky I knew that a standard refractor or cassegrain probably wasn't going to work for me.

Eventually I decided to purchase the 120ST refractor from Orion telescopes. The 120ST can either be purchased as a package, with a mount, tripod and eyepieces or it can be purchased as a simple optical tube assembly (OTA). The name of this telescope, the "120ST" means that the objective lens is 120mm in diameter (about 4.7") and that it is a Short Tube scope. The focal length is only 600mm long which gives it a focal ratio of f/5.

The fact that this is a 120mm f/5 scope means that it has some interesting characteristics. Some of these are benefits and others are drawbacks. The 120mm diameter lens is a definite plus because that is large enough to start getting some somewhat good views of deep space objects. At the same time, because the tube is so short, at only a bit longer than 2' and because the OTA only weighs about 8.6lbs, it is pretty darn portable. It's what amateur astronomers like to call: "Grab-n-Go". Also, because it is a short f/5 it should provide very wide fields of view, allowing the user to see large swaths of the sky at low to medium levels of magnification.

However, there is a big draw back. A scope like this will not be nearly as good as an f/8 or f/9 scope at viewing the planets and the moon. There are two reasons for this. First, because magnification power results from dividing the focal length of the OTA by the focal length of the eyepiece, a short tube scope has a hard time generating big magnifications. It isn't impossible, it just means that you either need a very small eyepiece or a special "barlow" lens which provides additional magnification.

The bigger drawback is this: Color Aberration (CA). This happens when you point a short tube refractor at a bright object (like a planet). What happens is that the light coming into the lens is bent at much sharper angles in an f/5 refractor than in an f/9 refractor. When the light is bent like this some wavelengths at the purple end of the spectrum are sent off at a slightly different angle than the rest of the light. The result is that you will see a purple halo around bright objects.

So, I had to decide if this was a big deal for me. In truth there are only a limited number of really bright objects in the sky to look at. Planets are interesting, but Mercury is hard to see anyway, Venus is kind of boring to look at and Uranus, Neptune and Pluto are both hard to find and not very bright. So, the only problems the 120ST would really have would be for The Moon, Mars, Jupiter and Saturn. That's only 4 objects out of all the hundreds of other less bright objects in the sky.

(Addendum: This isn't precisely true. Stars can also be interesting to look at, especially if they are in clusters or if you are trying to "split" close binary stars. That does add a lot more bright and possibly problematic objects I might want to look at through the scope.)

But, even if that is a problem, it turns out that there are two solutions to fix (mostly if not completely) the color aberration problem. First, you can get a special filter which fits on your eyepiece which filters out all the purple so you can't see it anymore (or at least you see a lot less of it.) These filters cost between $50 and $150 dollars depending on how good an effect you want. I've been eying a more expensive filter here.

Second you can also partially solve this problem by changing the focal ratio of your telescope. If you can somehow turn your f/5 scope into an f/7 or f/8 scope, then a big chunk of the color aberration problem goes away. This is how it works. The lens of the 120ST is 120mm in diameter. The focal length is 600mm. 600/120=5 which gives you an f/5 scope. But, if you place a cap over the main lens with an 80mm hole in the center of it, then now you have an 80mm lens. 600/80 = 7.5. So now, just by covering up part of the lens you have magically converted an f/5 scope to become an f/7.5 scope which should have much fewer problems with color aberration. It is true that, because of the smaller aperture, the image will be a bit dimmer, but planets and the moon are pretty bright anyway so that shouldn't be a big deal.

So, the long and short of it is that I decided on the 120ST because it was light, portable and, in theory, should provide nice images of deep space objects. Its ability to view the moon and the planets is problematic because of the fore mentioned problems, but these difficulties are not insurmountable and there are cost effective workarounds to solve them.

When I came to these conclusions I was finally settled that this was the scope I wanted. So I made a post on the Cloudy Nights forums describing my decision making process and asking for advice on how to optimize this portable scope to be good (but not necessarily great) multipurpose scope for viewing the moon, planets, nebulae, star clusters and galaxies.

I got some great advice from that thread, which helped me finalize all my decisions about exactly what I wanted, including eyepieces and other accessories. That thread can be found here. I won't bother to summarize it all again since this post is already long enough.

Suffice to say that after months of research I finally decided on exactly what I wanted out of a telescope and last week I ordered it. As I write this my new scope and almost all the accessories are on a FedEx truck to be delivered later today. The only thing I won't have yet is the eyepiece I bought, which was on back order and will be shipped later this week.

Sunday, January 25, 2009

Night Vision - Part 2

The more I read about telescopes this past fall and winter, the more confused I got about which type of scope I wanted to get for our family. It took me a long time and a lot of research to find one that met my requirements. There are 3 main types of scopes.

Refractors are what one typically thinks of when imagining a telescope. They have a big lens in the front (the part facing up) and an eyepiece in the back. The lens magnifies the image and focuses it down to the eyepiece where you see it. A small refractor is what Galileo used to see the moons of Jupiter for the first time. They typically offer smallish diameter lenses anywhere from 1" to 6" and can be anywhere from 2' to 4' long (although I have seen refractors more than 10' long, but they are rare). They require a very sturdy tripod to keep the scope stable.

Reflectors were invented by Newton. They are tubes with a bowl shaped mirror in the rear end which reflects and focuses the light back up to an eyepiece in the front. Amateur models are typically 6" to 12" in diameter and 4' to 5' long and very heavy. They have considerably greater light gathering power than refractors, but are bulkier. Also, Dobsonian models do not require a sophisticated tripod, but have a rather simplistic (and less expensive) base.

Cassegrain models have both a lens in the front end AND a mirror in back. This allows the light to pass back and forth along the tube offering a longer focal length in a smaller tube. They are lighter and more portable than the other models, but require regular adjustments to keep the lenses and mirrors all lined up. The process of lining up all the lenses and/or mirrors is called "collimation".

Focal Length simply means the distance between the lens/mirror and the eyepiece. Focal ratio is the ratio between the diameter of the lens/mirror and the focal length. For refractors and reflectors this just means the diameter of the lens/mirror divided by the length of the tube. Cassegrain models have a longer focal length because light is bounced 3 times back and forth from one end of the tube to the other. This means that Cassegrain models have smaller physical tubes, but have much longer focal lengths than reflectors or refractors. Refractors will typically have a focal ratio usually ranging from f/7 to f/9 with f/8 being about average. Reflectors usually have a shorter ratio at around f/5 and Cassegrain models have a longer ratio at about f/10 to f/12. In all cases there are models with longer or shorter focal ratios than average, but these are about average as far as I can tell.

Focal length is important because the smaller the ratio the wider the field of view you achieve but with less magnifying power. The larger the ratio the more amplifying power you achieve. Longer focal length scopes are capable of greater magnification, but narrow fields of view. Also, as you increase magnifying power you decrease the brightness of an object.

Magnifying power is calculated by dividing the focal length of the telescope by the focal length of the eyepiece you're using. So, with the same eyepiece an f/10 scope will deliver more magnifying power than an f/5 scope. But the f/5 scope will deliver a wider field of view with a brighter overall (although smaller) image with that same eyepiece.

What this means is that, if you are looking at a small, bright object (like a planet) you want to have a long focal length and a narrow field of view. That way you can achieve a high magnifying power and make the planet look really big and get a lot of detail in your image. The high magnifying power will make the planet look less bright, but planets are very bright anyway so being less bright isn't a big deal.

However, if you want to look at large, dim objects like nebulae, star clusters or galaxies, a high magnifying power will reduce their brightness so much that you may not be able to see them anymore. In these cases you want to have a short focal length and (because some of these objects are quite large, you want to have a wide field of view. Thus you want to have a low magnifying power to increase the brightness (rather than the size) of the object.

What all of this means is that telescopes with a long focal length are very good at giving you a large, detailed image of planets and other telescopes are better at giving you a wider field view of dim, further away objects like galaxies and nebulae and star clusters.

However, all other things being equal, the larger the diameter of the telescope, the more light gathering power it has and the more it will show you of just about everything. So, as a general rule of thumb, refractors and Cassegrain telescopes have longer focal lengths and give better images of planets than they do of other Deep Space Objects (DSO's). Big, heavy Newtonian scopes are much better at bringing out the details of DSO's but have a pretty short focal length and don't necessarily have the magnification power of longer focal length scopes. But, because they have so much more diameter, Newtonians are better all around at seeing everything you might want to see in the sky. Also, Dobsonian Newtonian scopes are the least expensive scope to buy because their mounting bases are so easy to manufacture and because mirrors are much cheaper ot make than lenses are. But, these types of scopes are also really big and heavy. They don't call them "light buckets" for nothing.

It took me several weeks to fully understand everything I just wrote up above. Once I started to grasp these basics it helped me to decide what I wanted out of a scope for our family. After a while I came up with these criteria for what I wanted:

1. Portability (I want to be able to take it camping with us)
2. Ability to see DSO's along with planets
3. Low cost (or as low as possible / reasonable)
4. Low maintenance and will last a lifetime
5. Quick set up and tear down time (Michigan winter nights are COLD)

After I came up with this list it took me a while to find the scope I wanted. Basically, I wanted a cheap, easy to use scope that I can carry around without killing my back, that I can set up quickly and that will let me see everything in the sky from planets to other galaxies. Regarding this last point I wasn't looking for perfection in viewing ability, merely competence. That is, I'd be happy with "good" rather than "perfect". I'm not willing to pay for "perfect" views of interstellar objects. Telescopes that offer "perfect" images are WAY too expensive for me.

Elements that did not make it to my list of criteria included imaging (astro-photography) and computerized mounts. Some day it might be nice to take pictures of objects in space, but that adds a HUGE amount to the cost of the scope and also requires a lot of experience. I originally toyed with getting a computerized scope for ease of use. These are scopes on a tripod with a motor and a hand held remote control. All you have to do is select name of the object from the computers list of objects and the telescope will automatically pivot and swing to point exactly at it.

I decided against computerized scopes for two reasons. First, it seemed like it would take all the fun out of research and exploration and second, it would add considerably to the price. I don't mind spending a bit of money on a scope, but I want that money to be spent on maximizing opitical quality and not on computerized bells and whistles.

Next time I'll describe what scope I chose and how it fits into my criteria. I ordered it a few days ago and am still waiting for it to arrive. Hopefully by next weekend!

Saturday, January 24, 2009

Night Vision - Part 1

I was bitten by the astronomy bug early last September. My son, Simon, who is almost 7, has been more or less obsessed with the planets and stars for several years now and I've always loved the topic as well, but it wasn't until last September that I really began wanting to get us a family telescope. Because of Simon's interest we attended a "Family Astronomy Night" at a Metro Park about an hour away (and somewhat farther from the glaring Detroit area light pollution.) It was a beautiful night that night, but there was a huge crowd (which I found out later numbered between 4,000 and 5,000 people). This meant that we didn't get a chance to look through many telescopes because the lines were so long.

However, we did get to look through some large, good quality telescopes at the moon and Jupiter and I have to say that seeing Jupiter is what really hooked me. It's hard to describe. For years I've known enough about the general layout of the planets and constellations to differentiate between Jupiter & Venus and the stars, although I didn't quite know enough to tell the difference between Jupiter & Venus with the naked eye (which I've since figured out, more or less).

However, I've never looked through a good telescope before and I never knew how much you could see about Jupiter if you just stood on the ground and looked at it through a good scope. So, I wasn't expecting much that night when I leaned over and peered through the eyepiece of a big Dobsonian scope. What I did see, however, well... it stunned me. I could see the bands of horizontal color. I could see the great red spot. And, most of all, I could see the 4 Galilean moons Io, Europe, Ganymede and Callisto. I mean, I knew that Galileo saw the 4 main moons hundreds of years ago with his little telescope, but seeing it yourself is different. It sounds silly, but seeing that was a bit of a transformative experience. It was hauntingly beautiful.

Here's what it looked like (but seeing a picture of it is not quite the same as seeing it with your own eyes).

Nothing in space looks as good through a telescope as it does in one of those Hubble Space Telescope pictures you see, but for me seeing this blurry little image with no more technology between me and it than a mirror and the lens of an eyepiece brought the universe closer than it was before.

The very next day I began researching telescopes. I've been reading about them online every day for the past 5 months. I've learned the difference between Galilean refractors, Newtonian reflectors and Schmidt-Cassegrain models. I've learned what focal length and focal ratios are and the difference between an f/5 and an f/15 scope and how that will affect the image you see. I've learned the difference between various sized eyepieces and how to calculate the magnification power of a scope by dividing its focal length by the focal length of the eyepiece.

Most importantly, I learned that no one scope excels at allowing you to see the moon, planets, star clusters, nebulae and other galaxies. Over time I discovered what I wanted out of a telescope and a couple of days ago I finally bought one. It should arrive in a week or so

Later I'll describe what my criteria were for our new family scope and which one I chose. Still later I hope to describe our attempts to find hidden treasures in the night sky. That's enough for now, though.